Probably, all of you reading this article, you know Sauternes wines from France and Port wines from Portugal. Most of you know Vinsanto from Italy or Santorini. And many of you know Tokaj from Hungary and Mavrodaphne from Patras, iced wine from Germany and Sherry from Spain. How many of you do know Commandaria or Koumandaria from Cyprus?
Commandaria is a sweet wine from the Island of Cyprus in Mediterranean and it is considered to be the oldest wine still in the making, recognized by the Guiness Book of world records. It is enjoyed as a dessert and after dinner wine but in Cyprus it is also used as a Communion in the Greek Orthodox Churches, which in many occasions is called Nama.
According to legend, King Richard the Lionheart of England was so taken with commandaria that at his wedding he pronounced it “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” Equally struck by the intoxicating liquor was the French King Philippe Augustus who is said to have declared it to be “the Apostle of wines”.
The sweet wine is only produced from two Cypriot indigenous grape varieties, Xynisteri, a white variety and Mavro, a red that grow in the 14 Commandaria Villages on the foothills of Troodos mountain and has received the PDI- Protected Designation Indication.
The grapes are harvested late in order to have high sugar levels and then are being sundried for 10 to15 days until they become almost raisins. The sweet nectar then is extracted and goes through the long fermentation process and after the vinification is over, the wines are being aged in French or USA oak barrels for up to two years but some new winemakers have been aging it for up to five years. The alcohol level is around 15% but some oenologist might fortify them with pure alcohol in order to reach a 20% alcohol level, but this is not common. The wine keeps on aging in the bottle and has further 40+ years aging potentials.
The tasting notes of Commandaria have intense flavors of dried fruits, oak, dark chocolate, caramel, nuts and honey. It is advised to be drunk at 10 – 14 degrees Celsius in a snifter or sherry glass. You can drink it after dinner or pair it well with desserts, Roquefort or any blue vein cheese and chocolate.
A few Commandarias to try if you visit Cyprus, but also available outside of Cyprus and online can be found with different vintages and prices:
Tsiakkas Commandaria Wine
Keo St. John Commandaria
Commandaria Alasia
Saint Barnabas Commandaria
Aes Ambelis Commandaria
Commandaria Wine Oenou Yi Ktima Vassiliades
Richard Commandaria
Some of the Commandaria wine producers have started a motion to Make Commandaria Grand Again #makecommandariagrandagain implementing events and promotions and trying to convince restaurant and hotel managers and owners to include Commandaria in their wine lists and their Digestive Lists. You can also make Cocktails with Commandaria including Commandaria Fizz, Commandaria Crush, Commandaria Negroni and many more.
This year, 2024, in order to celebrate 800 years of Commandaria, Cyprus in collaboration with the International Organisation of Vine and Wine -O.I.V. – and the French authorities are planning a special wine event in the framework of the 45th World Vine and Wine Congress in October 2024 in Dijon, France. You can find more information HERE.
If you like to learn more about Commandaria you can read a book by Antonis Konstantinou – The Legend of COMMANDARIA: 3000 years of winemaking tradition. You can also find information online, but if you visit Cyprus, I highly recommend that you visit the Commandaria Villages where you can taste first hand this Exquisite Sweet Wine from my island Cyprus.
Always remember to drink responsibly! Cheers! Στην υγειά σας! ( Stin Igeia sas in Greek).
